Flipside of Friperies (or second-hand shops)

*This article appeared in The Montreal Gazette. A Montreal friperie guide appears at the bottom of this story.

As a young teen, I used to travel up St. Laurent Blvd., across Mount Royal Ave., then down St. Denis St. looking for the most nondescript, perfectly dishevelled frocks: tattered jean shorts, maybe a plaid buttondown to synch around my waist. I was inspired by earlier 90s vibes, when flashy logos were like darkness visible. To me, these thrift-stores represented the few leftover threads of anti-consumer angst – not a dwindling economy.

Yet since the economic downturn, secondhand shops are getting a double take from both buyers and sellers. This time it’s not Kurt Cobain-revival grunge nabbing the attention. Rather, it’s the high-to mid-end consignment stores, a.k.a. friperies, coming into the spotlight.

In Montreal, there are five major high-end friperies (a French term for secondhand store) that boast name brands such as Chanel and Armani, and about a dozen mid-range outlets featuring labels like BCBG and Gap. Lightly worn blazers, dresses, purses and sunglasses are sold for about a third to a quarter
of the original cost, attracting bargain hunters galore.

Judy Bélanger, a former fashion writer, raves about friperie The Hunt in T.M.R. “A pure-silk shirt at Hugo Boss is about $600. I don’t have $600,” she says. “But Lynn Majdell (the owner of the Hunt) gets it to me for between $75 or $150.”

Other friperie fans include the lavish ladies who supply the $600 blouses – think Isla Fisher’s character in Confessions of a Shopaholic, but with shrewd business skills. These women drop off heaps of last season’s unwanted items, many with the price tags still on. After three months, they return for their cheques, usually about 50 to 60 per cent of what the items sell for in the friperies. Then they set out to refill their empty closets.

“I know I could make more on eBay,” announces a 28-year-old childcare worker who sells to mid-range friperie Dej à Porté on Victoria Ave. in Westmount. In the garb-trading game, shopaholics like to stay anonymous. “But it’s so mindless. Four times a year, I bring in my old clothes and come out with $150 to $500.”

But making a fast buck off those once-worn gala gowns can be a cryptic challenge. Each friperie has unique consignment rules. Some only take clothes that are one to two years old; others only accept vintage pieces. Then there are protocols about what brands friperies will accept, what types of clothing to bring in – sweat suits or power suits? – and issues about whether to wash or dry-clean items before dropping them off.

The new scene
I decided to try the other side of second-hand: selling at friperies. I gathered the excess clothing billowing out of my closets (along with my mother’s and sister’s closets) and set out.

Turns out the Plateau is no longer the hot-spot for flipping frocks. Many buy-and-sell friperies in the area closed when hip chains like Urban Outfitters roared in, offering new and inexpensive clothes for less. What remains on the ’90s grunge circuit are buy-only vintage shops, like Kitsch ’n Swell, on St. Laurent Blvd., corner of Duluth, which features old rollerskates and Playboy magazines. Then, there are concept stores such as Pre-Loved on St.Laurent Blvd., just north of St. Joseph, where second-hand knits and jerseys are reworked to fit the latest trends.

Eva B. is the only friperie on the Main where you can still swap an old bag of sweaters for a new leather jacket. Part-café, part-costume store and part-consignment shop, this store has pulled off several Madonna-like makeovers to stay fresh. It boasts mid-range items like Seven jeans and Juicy Couture pullovers.

Montreal’s most upscale friperies – the ones that buy and sell Miu Miu – are found in residential neighborhoods like T.M.R. and Westmount. These stores attract a clientele of professional women in their 30s and 40s who like to shop, chat and bargain-hunt all at once.

“We also do therapy here,” says Sharyn Scott at her busy friperie on Sherbrooke St. W. in Westmount. “Isn’t that right?” Scott asks a
lean 40-something brunette who’s lounging in the store’s makeshift den area, sipping a coffee. The woman nods and smiles shyly. Scott’s customers are like regulars on a long-running sitcom. Some sit and chat for a while, others rifle through the racks and head on their way. “Most of my clients shop at all the friperies,” she explains. With heaps of clothing and accessories strewn about, it’s a full-time hobby sorting through piles and keeping up with new items, which arrive daily.

Second-hand
high-life

Boutique Encore on Crescent St. is Montreal’s only high-end friperie that looks like a regular retail outlet. A short stroll from Holt Renfrew and luxury condos on de la Musée Ave., the store boasts an impressive array of jewels and gowns, along with mint-condition Louis Vuitton bags (a matching fuchsia Vernis purse and wallet are now $800 and $450, respectively; originally about double) and Chanel suits (now $1,200; originally around $4,000).

To ensure authenticity and market price, owner Anna McKay verifies items at Oglivy’s or Holt Renfrew even though many garments and accessories are brought in with the original bill and others still have those price tags dangling.
“We get lots of impulse buys and returned gifts,” McKay says. Then, of course, there are regular drop-offs made by jet-setting women, right? Maybe. Maybe not. Friperie owners don’t like to discuss their extravagant suppliers.

McKay and her assistant, Paul LeBlanc, go to great lengths to conceal the women’s identities, assigning them code names along the lines of “C1” or “R42.” Turns out mystery adds allure to luxury hand-me-down goods. When “C1” and “R42” shoppers make
their seasonal drop-offs, McKay and LeBlanc phone or email their regular customers to come get first picks. “Customers almost always buy what I’ve picked out,” says LeBlanc, who acts as a personal shopper. His recent sales include a Chanel two-piece bouclé suit for $1,000, and an Izzy Miyake coat and skirt for $1,200 – which came in with the original price tags still on. “The Miyake would have been about $3,000 to $4,000 in stores.” The tags are removed before the items are put out for sale.

The dwindling
economy

With name brands and new inventory daily, it’s a wonder friperies haven’t surged like cheaper thrift shops did in the ’90s. “Everybody thinks that because of the economy, these stores are going to do better than ever,” Sharyn Scott says. “I don’t know how or why.” Scott says mint-condition items, including an almost-new Chanel purse she sells for $2,000, are even harder to come by these days. “When the shoppers shop less in the big stores, I have less stuff to offer my regular customers,” she says.

Encore’s Anna McKay says she first noticed the economic decline two years ago, when her top sellers started coming in with less inventory. “Everybody is suffering in one way or another,” she says. While luxury shoppers aren’t necessarily buying 250 items a year anymore, McKay says more shoppers are putting clothes up for consignment.

“Nobody wants to give to charity anymore.” Majdell from The Hunt believes second-hand shopping trends in London
and New York are helping friperies thrive, though. When markets plunged in September, the New York Times ran a story about thrift clothing: “The must-have item for fall, it turns out, is someone else’s castoff,” the article said (also noting how sales are up but donations down at Salvation Army). Majdell believes Montreal friperies can take advantage of this trend as long as prices are kept low.

“The whole philosophy is to get the best deal possible,” she says. She tells her consignment sellers to aspire to fast turnaround, not a handsome profit. “I usually sell for about a quarter of the original cost, but I also decide what the market will bear. Last weekend, I sold a diamond and sapphire ring that had an evaluation of $12,000 for $1,500.”

The future

Mark Bird, owner of Friperie Peek-a-Boo on Roy St. E., which sells children’s clothing, feels threatened by stores like Walmart. “It’s becoming increasingly difficult for a friperie to compete with new clothing imported, often from China.” Bird hopes environmental concerns will inspire shoppers to buy used instead of inexpensive no-name brands.
“Energy has not been spent shipping the clothing half-way around the planet, plus there’s a lot less clothing to dump,” he points out.

When it comes to
economic investments in the future, friperie owners advise buying recognizable brand names used or new. “Today, vintage has to have a name; otherwise it doesn’t sell,” Majdell says. Sharyn Scott agrees. “It pays to buy top quality,” she says. “They are the only clothes that last.” Instead of buying a fitted lumberjack shirt at H&M, friperie owners recommend purchasing second-hand Prada, which is a near-perfect case of absurdity. The thrift-store look has become mass-produced and disposable, while flashy logos rule the vintage scene.

Suzanne Wexler

How to Sell Secondhand:

Each friperie and consignment store offers something unique for bargain hunters and a different protocol for would-be sellers. Best to look over this checklist before heading out:

Boutique Encore

2145 Crescent St., Tel: 514.849.0092, Email: annamay@qc.aibn.com

Contact: Anna McKay and assistant Paul LeBlanc

Description: This top-of-the-line consignment store currently features full-piece brand name suits, a Louis Vuitton purse ($800), Chanel adornments ($225 for a logo-bangle), and gowns and tuxedos for black-tie. Dazzling jewelry and vintage satin clutches are worth checking out too.

Bring in: For women, store accepts seasonal items such as clothes, shoes, accessories and jewelry. Maximum three to five years old. Brands include Chanel, Gucci, Prada, Hermès etc. For men, semi-casual to formal wear, buttondown shirts, and belts. Brand names a must. All items must be in excellent, almost mint condition.

How it works: Call and book an appointment. Then bring in all items dry-cleaned and on hangers. Anna and Paul go through clothing a make their selections. After three months, unsold clothes are returned. Cheques are sent out monthly.

Final note: Store does not accept cut labels and tolerate forgeries of any kind.

Sharyn Scott, Consignment by Appointment

4925 Sherbrooke W. in Westmount, Tel: 514.484.6507, Email: sharyn.scott@sympatico.ca

Contact: Sharyn Scott

Description: This high-end consignment shop is a friendly neighbouhood go-to. Current items include a fitted v-neck Dolce and Gabbana cashmere sweater ($300), an Armani blazer with pricetag ($2095), a slight worn chocolate brown Chanel purse ($2000). Scott is heavily involved with charities, and she will personally donate unused consignments. Cash only.

Bring in: For women, store accepts seasonal items including clothes, shoes, accessories, furs, and jewelry. Looking for top brand names and/or items that are maximum one to two years old. Clothes from stores like Gap must be almost brand new. Nothing vintage, unless Prada, Chanel, etc. Items must be in great condition; shoes should be like new.

How it works: Call for an appointment. Bring in clothes that are washed according to label or dry-cleaned. Scott selects item and returns the rest. After three months seller comes in for cheque and to renegotiate unsold items.

Final note: “If you bought a Hermès bag twenty-five years ago, it probably would’ve tripled in value, unlike your stock portfolio,” she says. On that note, Scott demands merchant letters to authenticate luxury items.

Dej  Porte (Ready-to-Wear Again)

344 Victoria Ave. in Westmount, Tel: 514.217.9772

Contact: Jeanine Wilmot

Description: The small, mid-range consignment store features jeans, cashmere sweaters, coats, causal work wear, and some dresses. Current items include a suede Ungaro vintage jacket ($98), or a full length leather coat with beige trim ($298). New items come in daily.

Bring in: Store will accept clothes, coats, sweater, handbags, and dresses for working women ages thirty to fifty. Not necessarily brand names, but maximum three to five years old. Must be in pristine condition.

How it works: Clothes must be dry-cleaned or washed properly, otherwise returned. Items must be on hangers. Usually keeps only three to ten items at a time, and only for two months, as store is quite small. Cheques given at the end of consignment period.

Final note: Store is currently looking for designer bags.

The Hunt

1795 Graham Blvd in T.M.R., Tel: 514.344.9484

Contact: Lynn Majdell

Description: High to mid-range consignment store filled with clothes, coats, jewelry, bags, shoes, furs, dresses, etc. Lynn Majdell enjoys dressing customers, and is known for her sharp eye. Items include Marni coat ($200) and Dolce and Gabbana sweater ($120).

Bring in: Really new, rarely worn clothes, shoes, and accessories for women. Maximum one to two years old. Accepts vintage items from big labels only. Seasonal items only.

How it works: Call for an appointment. Clothes must be cleaned or dry cleaned. Items are judged scrupulously and Majdell does not take everything, though usually ten to twenty items. Items stay for three months and unsold items are picked up. Seller gets 50% of sale.

Final note: Make sure clothes are recent and clean.

Friperie Peek-a-Boo

807 Rachel E., Tel: 514.890.1222; 1739 Fleury E., Tel: 514.270.4309, Email: info@friperiepeekaboo.ca

Description: Friperie Peek-a-Boo sells new and used children’s clothes, from infant to age six. Display is very neat, and used items look brand new. Items include used Baby Gap infant sweaterdress ($20) and a new Aardvark winter hat ($16). Store is stroller friendly. Steady stream of customers with eco-friendly value system.

Bring in: Almost new or mint condition childrens clothing, coats, snowsuits. Must be stylish. Brands like Baby Gap and Mexx usually get A+ from buyer. Takes four seasons all year.

How it works: Phone first then drop off clothes at store, minimum ten pieces and maximum a garbage bag worth. After delay period of ten days, items are selected for resale and the rest is returned. Cash or store credit are offered up front.

Final note: High season is spring and back-to-school.

Eva B.

2013-2015 St. Laurent, Tel: 514.849. 8246, Email: boutiqueevab@hotmail.com

Contact: Eva B.

Description: One of the only thrift shops left in the city that buys from the public, Eva B. offers used jeans, eccentric t-shirts, vintage leathers, lambskin coats, cool accessories, and an attic full of the wildest costumes in Montreal. Items include vintage jeans ($15) and used t-shirts ($3).

Bring in: All types of women’s and men’s clothes and accessories. Also accepts costumes.

How it works: Call first. Then, bring in clothes but make sure they are properly cleaned and folded.

Final note: According to the store’s pamphlet: “We buy all your clothes immediately after selection. You probably look better naked anyway!”

Ebay

Everywhere, www.ebay.com

Contact: Help icon to Ebay Univerity Learning Center

Description: New and used clothes, accessories, jewels, and you-name-it from all over the world. Brands range from Prada and Chanel to lower ends like BCBG.

Bring in: Almost anything, though no-name brands, very used clothing, and high pricing (even on luxury items) make a difficult sell.

How it works: Find a digital camera, figure out how to make your clothes look their best (on a mannequin, on the floor, or on you), and them post them online for a starting bid. Wait and see who buys, and then run over to the post office to mail to highest bidder. Payment usually delivered via Paypal.

Final note: If you’re not computer or camera savvy, you might want to find a friend or relative who knows how to operate ebay. Online auction sites are not for everyone.

SIDEBAR 2:

Shopper experience: Notes from a bargain hunter:

Judy B. was passing by The Hunt in T.M.R. and had the following to say about consignment shopping:

“I live close to here and I love fashion. I’m an ex-journalist for Elle Magazine—I interviewed Jean Paul Gaultier and Donna Karan—so, let’s just say I like to look good. Today, I do business and I like to have sharp suits and nice silk shirts. I always meet the same people, so I don’t like to wear the same thing. Plus I go out a lot. I need clothes for work, classy, going-out, everything…To put up with this I’d have to be a millionaire.

The first time I came to the store three years ago, I found treasures immediately: Pieces that are classic, with big names, and in great shape. 80% of the stuff here is brand new and never worn. Though you gotta have the eye for it. It’s not presented like a regular store so you really have to dig. But I hunt moose for real, so I can hunt at the Hunt! Plus, the owner Lynn knows my size, my taste, and I let her know what I’m looking for, so that makes it easier. I come three-to-four times a week and there’s always new stock. Don’t ask me how she does it, but she does.”

SIDEBAR 3:

New Vintage

Most of vintage stores don’t take items from the public, except for the odd collector’s item. To keep up with the times, the following stores have blossomed in to high-end entities with unique specialization, and are well worth checking out:

Kitch ‘n Swell

3968 boul. St. Laurent, Website: www.kitchnswell.ca

Description: Great furry hats, leather jackets, and skinny retro ties for men. Also, vintage luggage and ice skates.

ERA Vintage Wear.

1800 Notre-Dame O., Tel: 514.443.8750

Description: On antique alley, this store is quite neat and stylish for a vintage shop. Style is favored over brands, making it the ideal place to find unique lingerie, a fantastic coat, or even a dress for graduation come springtime. Prices are quite reasonable.

Leora

859 Rachel St. E., Tel. 514.792.5962

Description: Opened by former costume designer Nicole Pelletier—whose screen credits include dressing Catherine Deneuve—this new store features vintage clothes, hats, jewelry, from the ‘30s and up, and boasts several name brands.